I just did a head gasket on my turbo mazda...it didn't blow out the fire rings, but the paper blew out in the tiniest of spots to the front of the engine...hence i didn't get any bubbles in the radiator, white film in the oil, but had the same symptoms as you.... (block and head were machined flat l...

can't find my digi camera :evil: here's a pic of it before i painted it in hammer tone blue, and used spray on tray liner.... http://www.tamon.org/gallery/d/12543-2/Trailer-prep.JPG Inside the front compartment are storage boxes and a 9kg gas bottle, with a dual fitting coming out where the door lat...

"can of stop leak" what is that????? It sounds like an additive to the oil.....personally I wouldn't use it!!! If you only have short distances to travel (motorbike riders are going to hate me for saying this, myself included!!!), just drive gently and top up the oil with a heavier grade o...

the power stroke will force your finger off the spark plug hole...

yes then stick the dizzy back in, but make sure it's alignment markings are correct also (the pics in the manual are quite good)...

After actually getting sometime off to complete a few projects I've had on the go for over a year now, i'm actually starting to complete them!!!! Today I registered my MB trailer it's the rear half of a MB much like the one brayden found a while back... http://www.tamon.org/gallery/d/12531-2/kyaria3...

like toranaguy said as long as the timing marks are aligned with how it is in the manual you will be fine..... to double check rotate the crank (with timing belt already fitted) around a few times and check that the marks do indeed line back up again. This also checks if you have the right tension o...

I should have mentioned to align the mark for TDC on the crank and cam shaft before you put the head back on as this eliminates the risk of bending a valve if your timing is way off (i can't remember off hand if the f8b/f5a engines are interference or not...). from memory the std. pistons have a dis...

blueprintute that is exactly what I do for a flush of the system (good old garden hose), then I run a cleaning product through the system, flush again and drain (using compressed air in the top and bottom hoses) then fill up with good coolant.

get a copy of the workshop manual... you will need to line up the TDC mark on the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the cam pulley. Attach cam belt and then have to confirm whether you are on a compression stroke or exhaust stroke on cylinder 1. Rotate until you are on a compression stroke and then ...

I havn't looked closely at a f6a but I would assume they would have welch plugs like many other engines....replacing those for a coolant change is a bit of overkill!!!! older style cars had a drain screw/bolt just below the water pump... I would just do a normal coolant flush and then refill it with...

I was going to suggest that earlier, but have nowhere to store them.....

i'm sure others would be interested in a "$200" MB just for the panels and glass alone......

interesting conversion to a round headlight for a MB, with a series I grill.....

or maybe a series I MB with round headlights?????

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m67866078

toranaguy, 3mm plate for adapters is fine, but if you are making your own base/floor mount like me I would use something more substantial... My Engineer advised i should leave the mighty boy seat belt mount on the floor to make it easier to engineer. Something to do with legal requirements of the se...

no chance of fitting a 12" with those risers on the axle plates.....and modifying them would defeat the purpose of a fairly straight swap that looks factory...

mitsubishi lancers a few years back had the same stud pattern as us, so maybe there space saver might be worth a look....

here's a pics of the part you have to cut.....