F8c transplant
I'm still a fan of the F8B because you can start the swap after breakfast and be driving it by lunchtime
YOU might be driving by lunchtime....
Us mere mortals typically need two days to get the puppy in, then another few days to iron out all the bugs...
Tez
So the adventure continues...
So the adventure continues...
I certainly agree with the ez of the swap, However the problem is finding an F8b then having it reconditioned. Also I would need the gearbox, Carby and manifolds. May cost more to begin with then G10a?
With The g10a of course new engine mounts are needed. obviuly the drive shafs are different. Would you get them machined for MB hubs or get Swift Hubs?
Ive found a complete 93 g10a motor(140,000kms running well),carby, manifolds, driveshafts, gearbox(recoed 8,000kms ago) with new clutch for $1200
What do you think?
With The g10a of course new engine mounts are needed. obviuly the drive shafs are different. Would you get them machined for MB hubs or get Swift Hubs?
Ive found a complete 93 g10a motor(140,000kms running well),carby, manifolds, driveshafts, gearbox(recoed 8,000kms ago) with new clutch for $1200
What do you think?
Well to get it engineered wouldnt you need bigger brakes, well at least slotted rotors. Just use the swift hubs, i think the part the steering connects to needs mods.
Theres a few hatches at the wreckers in brisbane with complete f8b's.
Theres a few hatches at the wreckers in brisbane with complete f8b's.
Looking through the options myself I am liking the idea of the G10A swap, Although it might be a higher cost to get it all done properly, much of the things needed to allow for it (Swift hubs, brakes, etc) are things I already want to do, regardless of the engine.
The attraction the F8C swap is the fact it is already running EFI, is readily available out of the Matiz, and when you modify it for a turbo, will crank out more again. The downside is how few have been done, and that you then need to meet the emissions regs for the Matiz/F8C.
Look at the insurance auctions for Matiz wrecks, some of them go fairly cheap, and if you part it out properly, you can probably recover some of the cost of getting it home, etc.
Though if your own mechanical skills and budget for custom/unusual work is limited, then maybe getting a F8B front cut is what you are better off doing, as it will have the bits you need.
If you do that, can I call dibs on the cradle from the auto box?
The attraction the F8C swap is the fact it is already running EFI, is readily available out of the Matiz, and when you modify it for a turbo, will crank out more again. The downside is how few have been done, and that you then need to meet the emissions regs for the Matiz/F8C.
Look at the insurance auctions for Matiz wrecks, some of them go fairly cheap, and if you part it out properly, you can probably recover some of the cost of getting it home, etc.
Though if your own mechanical skills and budget for custom/unusual work is limited, then maybe getting a F8B front cut is what you are better off doing, as it will have the bits you need.
If you do that, can I call dibs on the cradle from the auto box?
1987 Suzuki Mighty Boy - F5A, stocker.
Work fleet, or Wife's Jeep Rubicon.
Work fleet, or Wife's Jeep Rubicon.
Mmm yes, I'm curious about what sort of mess you would end up with trying to boost an F8C with its plastic inlet manifold. The non-return fuel system also causes its own complications.Breyten wrote: The attraction the F8C swap is the fact it is already running EFI, is readily available out of the Matiz, and when you modify it for a turbo, will crank out more again. The downside is how few have been done, and that you then need to meet the emissions regs for the Matiz/F8C.
Given that the F8C is likely just a reverse-engineered Suzuki motor I would hold concerns over the quality of the internal components too.
But it will only take one person to do it and prove one way or the other!
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Its great that we have so many options even if there are pros and cons to all of them
If for the time being I settled on an F8b engine could I still use my F5a auto.
Im assuming all I would need is F8b engine, mounts, carby and inlet manifold?
Thanks
If for the time being I settled on an F8b engine could I still use my F5a auto.
Im assuming all I would need is F8b engine, mounts, carby and inlet manifold?
Thanks
husky you can mate the f8b to the f5a auto, and just use your current f5a carby....the performance loss will not be noticeable....i wouldn't do that g/box arrangement long term as the auto's are horrible to drive!!!!
As for costs, to do it properly you will have to pay for an engineer plate either way (f8b or G10a). Brakes are almost identical so i'm not sure you will have to upgrade. People go through engine mounts I personally believe due to a dodgy install and fabrication of the mounts......do it properly first time!!!
forum member Trevor at south west rocks can confirm a lot of your questions, it would be worthwhile dropping him an email. Or ask the engineer you are planning on getting to plate the conversion....the earlier you consult them them more likely they will pass it.....
basically,
G10a is easier/better than a F8C
F8B is easier but not as good as a G10a
As for costs, to do it properly you will have to pay for an engineer plate either way (f8b or G10a). Brakes are almost identical so i'm not sure you will have to upgrade. People go through engine mounts I personally believe due to a dodgy install and fabrication of the mounts......do it properly first time!!!
forum member Trevor at south west rocks can confirm a lot of your questions, it would be worthwhile dropping him an email. Or ask the engineer you are planning on getting to plate the conversion....the earlier you consult them them more likely they will pass it.....
basically,
G10a is easier/better than a F8C
F8B is easier but not as good as a G10a
[url=http://www.tamon.org/gallery/v/members/ike849/][img]http://www.tamon.org/forum/images/per_gall.gif[/img][/url]
Yet to see a boosted plastic inlet manifold too, however if you are going for a turbo, might as well fabricate a custom manifold too. Dont have to worry about water jacket either.Brayden wrote: Mmm yes, I'm curious about what sort of mess you would end up with trying to boost an F8C with its plastic inlet manifold. The non-return fuel system also causes its own complications.
Given that the F8C is likely just a reverse-engineered Suzuki motor I would hold concerns over the quality of the internal components too.
Not that up to speed on this whole idea of returning fuel... never had a car that was ever going to have an excess of it!
Daewoo built - Owned by GM. So are Suzuki. Same stuff different badge. Suzuki probably designed it, then left it sit because they had no use for it, or were being told to adopt a more global platform. *shrug*
Trying to kill a Daewoo Cielo is like trying to kill a Camira... it just doesn't happen!
1987 Suzuki Mighty Boy - F5A, stocker.
Work fleet, or Wife's Jeep Rubicon.
Work fleet, or Wife's Jeep Rubicon.
Non-return system has the FPR in the pump, so you can't fit an aftermarket FPR to control the fuel pressure for a turbo setup.Breyten wrote: Not that up to speed on this whole idea of returning fuel... never had a car that was ever going to have an excess of it!
You're making some assumptions there. Just because GM owns a stake of Suzuki and Daewoo it doesn't make the F8C a Suzuki product. The F8C shares no commonality with later model F series engines produced by Suzuki.Daewoo built - Owned by GM. So are Suzuki. Same stuff different badge. Suzuki probably designed it, then left it sit because they had no use for it, or were being told to adopt a more global platform. *shrug*
Trying to kill a Daewoo Cielo is like trying to kill a Camira... it just doesn't happen!
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Gday Ike849,
Some good advice there mate, I guess the thing is I dont want the Mb off the road for an extended period of time but more the point I want something I can do myself. Dont get me wrong I believe am fairly mechanically minded but I dont want to bite off more than I can chew with the G10a. I do have access to welding equipment for engine mounts. I suppose with the G10a it doesnt stop at the engine and box, you have to shorten the drive shafts use swift hubs which means new wheels etc...$$?
I really am in two minds. Long term a G10a manual would be great. F8b Auto would be a medium term fix. At least I would be able to just keep up with traffic up hills around the burbs, unlike now
(correct me if am wrong). Yes the 2 speed auto is shite 
Decisions, decisions Which ever way I go it will have to be soonish because my F5a is really down on power and I want to drive it
I appreciate everyones input and thanks for passing on the knowlegde
Cheers
Some good advice there mate, I guess the thing is I dont want the Mb off the road for an extended period of time but more the point I want something I can do myself. Dont get me wrong I believe am fairly mechanically minded but I dont want to bite off more than I can chew with the G10a. I do have access to welding equipment for engine mounts. I suppose with the G10a it doesnt stop at the engine and box, you have to shorten the drive shafts use swift hubs which means new wheels etc...$$?
I really am in two minds. Long term a G10a manual would be great. F8b Auto would be a medium term fix. At least I would be able to just keep up with traffic up hills around the burbs, unlike now
(correct me if am wrong). Yes the 2 speed auto is shite Decisions, decisions Which ever way I go it will have to be soonish because my F5a is really down on power and I want to drive it
I appreciate everyones input and thanks for passing on the knowlegde
Cheers