would it be possible/plausible to swap what ever is used in the F5a auto carby to put it on the F8b manual one?
Also with out the auto intake manifold is it not going to run/hard to start when cold?
Thanks
auto carbys
As explained on the previous page, the manual carby has an over-run enrichment system that is not required on with an automatic gearbox. This system is integral to the carby and cannot be removed.
The most simple solution is to put the F8B jets into the F5A carby, that way you don't have to swap anything else over. (Like the vacuum idle-up system). Basically the auto carby/manifold has a bunch of vacuum/temperature controlled gadgets that adjust the shift and idle based on a bunch of values. Removal of any component will alter the performance of the engine/gearbox.
The systems are:
- Temp controlled switch/vacuum setup that raises the cold start idle until the coolant temp reaches 60deg cel.
- Vacuum sensor that signals the ECU to shift into 2nd gear under 40kph when there is gentle load on the motor
- Vacuum switch that raises the idle when electrical load passes a certain threshold.
- Temp controlled switch to operate the EGR system.
I've worked all of this out through the process of doing an F8B conversion on my auto MB. Getting the entire system running correctly is a real pain in the backside. The good news is that I'm putting together a diagram for the vacuum piping which I know will make things easier for many people.
The most simple solution is to put the F8B jets into the F5A carby, that way you don't have to swap anything else over. (Like the vacuum idle-up system). Basically the auto carby/manifold has a bunch of vacuum/temperature controlled gadgets that adjust the shift and idle based on a bunch of values. Removal of any component will alter the performance of the engine/gearbox.
The systems are:
- Temp controlled switch/vacuum setup that raises the cold start idle until the coolant temp reaches 60deg cel.
- Vacuum sensor that signals the ECU to shift into 2nd gear under 40kph when there is gentle load on the motor
- Vacuum switch that raises the idle when electrical load passes a certain threshold.
- Temp controlled switch to operate the EGR system.
I've worked all of this out through the process of doing an F8B conversion on my auto MB. Getting the entire system running correctly is a real pain in the backside. The good news is that I'm putting together a diagram for the vacuum piping which I know will make things easier for many people.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Kits are the same for F5A and F8B - they have all sorts of extra gaskets and o-rings in them to cover a range of different models. (At least that was the case with the Fuel Miser kits I have bought.)
On the subject of automatic gearboxes, I have to say that the system used by Suzuki is convoluted and ridiculously fragile. It only takes one component of the system to not be functioning and the whole thing stops working properly. Having been through the process of repairing a few worn out auto setups and until I figured out exactly how it all fits together it was an hair-pulling exercise, especially when a previous owner/mechanic had removed or bypassed components. The worst part is that not even the auto supplement for the workshop manual has a diagram that explains how the vacuum/temp switching system works!
Consequently I've learned how the auto box should operate, and will put together a troubleshooting guide.
On the subject of automatic gearboxes, I have to say that the system used by Suzuki is convoluted and ridiculously fragile. It only takes one component of the system to not be functioning and the whole thing stops working properly. Having been through the process of repairing a few worn out auto setups and until I figured out exactly how it all fits together it was an hair-pulling exercise, especially when a previous owner/mechanic had removed or bypassed components. The worst part is that not even the auto supplement for the workshop manual has a diagram that explains how the vacuum/temp switching system works!
Consequently I've learned how the auto box should operate, and will put together a troubleshooting guide.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Great advice,
I was about to look in the online manual to sort out where all the jets have to go. I will order a gasket kit so when I pull the F5a Auto carb apart I can place The f8b jets in there and put it all back together. Im going to keep the F8b carb so when the time comes if I find a complete good manual setup Im ready to go
Looks like sorting the carb out may be more invovled than swapping engines and gearboxs
I was about to look in the online manual to sort out where all the jets have to go. I will order a gasket kit so when I pull the F5a Auto carb apart I can place The f8b jets in there and put it all back together. Im going to keep the F8b carb so when the time comes if I find a complete good manual setup Im ready to go
Looks like sorting the carb out may be more invovled than swapping engines and gearboxs
There's only two jets to swap - primary and secondary. Once you have the top off the carby you can screw them straight out. Make sure you use a snug screwdriver though, and soak them in WD40 first. Being made of brass means they are prone to breaking.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Two jets only - primary and secondary. Unless you change the emulsification tubes as well, but I think they're the same.
Last edited by Brayden on Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
don't forget the pilot jets for primary and secondary....
here i'm pointing at the secondary pilot jet (the primary is on the other side)
here i'm pointing at the secondary pilot jet (the primary is on the other side)
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