F10A to K10A Suzuki Super Carry

[NozMonkeys]

I'm going to try spray engine start around the vacuum lines to try source a leak. It runs fine before I give it a rev then it goes into its own world.

Are the IAC valves cleanable or should I just buy another one? I disconnected it to see what would happen and it just reved the engine up.

[NozMonkeys]

Enjoy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJmoV3djDZ0

0-100 video soon. I've only got 3/4 throttle at the moment. I need to grind my pedal governor off.

[Jermaine]

u can buy throttle body cleaner stuff, u spray it into the throttle body, then what 2 mins, start it up and then spray the rest of the can in.. works good, we have had customers say its improved there fuel econamy.. and it goes better.. could give that a try

[Billie]

How did you cook the engine?

[NozMonkeys]

My electric fan wasn't working (I assumed it was). Turns out it was missing its fuse. No signs that its done any damage but I might compression test it and co2 test it.

I removed my IAC Valve at work today and sprayed a ton of throttle body cleaner on it and in its seat, it was very clean when I was finished with it

I'm going to source another IAC Valve. The one I've got definitely moves as I tested it but could be faulty when in operation.

If all fails I'll go down the local tuner and see if a custom chip in the ECU will reprogram the lot.

Our scan tool at work doesn't have a suzuki plug and I don't have an engine light for a manual diagnostic.

Are you a mechanic Honda Mighty Boy?

[Jermaine]

yea i am.. only just tho lol

[NozMonkeys]

Just qualified?

I've got a long road to go down lol. Only 1/4 the way there.

[NozMonkeys]

I taped my camera onto my dash for the 0-100km video, turn my van on and drive backwards 3 meters and it died. . .


I cooked my EFI fuel pump so tomorrow I'm going to get some heat shielding and a new fuel pump. It gets rather hot in the engine bay so I assume this cooked it, either that or my fuel filters shagged.

[Jermaine]

yea only just qualified, i feel like i need more experiance tho.. i dont know enough to be qualified lol.

wid your fuel pump, id have it as close to the tank as possible, as having it to far away will put to much load on it possible..

[NozMonkeys]

Oh its close alright. 100mm away from my surge tank and gravity fed. Its also 200mm from the hot engine. So I really should put a heat shield over the replacement one as I'm positive I cooked it with to much heat. I've tried reversing the polarity but its stuck solid.

I'll upload some photos of my setup. Have all the photos I've posted been viewable?

[Jermaine]

yea i think so

[NozMonkeys]

0-100km:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCtcKwsvnOs

I watched another vid and f10a's take about 21-22 seconds to get to 100. I can do it in 15 seconds now and thats with only 3/4 throttle

[j-six]

Heres a rough estimate on what I've spent for those interested:

Engine,ECU, loom - $800 (he brought it for $1100)
Modified Intake manifold - $300
EFI Fuel Pump - $80
Radiator hose (Bendy hose) - $35

All NZD prices

Price of a rotor engine over here is $3000.

I've yet to get all my radiator piping which is probably $60 more.

Then Intercooler pipings going to hit my pocket.

I paid $1600 for the van.

I need some help/opinions.

I've removed the engine and have to modify the oil pick up and sump to hold a decent amount of oil.

The pickup currently sits on the side of the engine with the least amount of oil.
The oil level will fill above the splash plate and be close to contacting the crankshaft, I'm pretty sure it should be below the splash plate.

So I'm just looking for answers to sump modifications and where the best position for the pickup is. Even making an external sump.















I also need a wiring diagram for the K10A engine. Even a site I can purchase it off.

Hi NozMonkeys,

Good day mate,

j-six here from the Philippines, and I was following your sweet project of slamming the K10a to the super carry. I'm also the acting chair of Club Suzuki here, and i do own one super carry =)

I'm also having this project in mind of converting from carby to efi due to gas efficiency problems, and i do believe that the k10a just sips gas, considering it's a VVT turbo.

I hope if you don't mind me asking several questions man, coz i'm dying to get the engine swap right now! hehe, anyway so here they are:

1. in order to answer the oiling problem when tilting the K10a, the oil pan, oil pick-up tube should be made longer so it can pick-up oil from the lowered oil pan?

2. what parts from the original super carry have you changed in the fuel system, oiling system, ignition system, transmission system so that it can accomodate the K10a? may i know the parts that needed to be custom-made/ fabricated?

3. as for the original tranny of the F10a, did you made any changes so that it can accommodate the K10a?

thanks man! you're the best! =)

[NozMonkeys]

Its awesome someones interested in the doing the same swap

First issue: My car isn't running right yet. Theres 2 spots I can put my MAP sensor at. One it drives fine but real rich so sucks the gas. If I put it in the standard position the idle is high, the revs fluctuate at idle and it holds the revs between gear changes, basically making it a pig to drive. I've check for vacuum leaks but can't source the problem yet. I'm also running an Auto ECU so I'm thinking of trying out a Manual ECU.

I'm getting 250kms to a tank 32 litres (i think).

It'l take me a few posts to answer all your questions.

Intake Manifold:
You need someone who can weld alloy REAL good, or else you'l get leaks.

I cut the manifold just before the fuel rails mounting points (so that I could still use the fuel rail) and then the welder made a custom intake which cleared the alternator.

From the cut point of the manifold to the new section is a 90 degree angle.

Pics:
[URL=http://img80.imageshack.us/i/intakemani ... fit00.jpg/]

[URL=http://img687.imageshack.us/i/intakeman ... fit00.jpg/]

Sump

You want the Oil Pickup as low as possible in a part of the sump that will forever be in oil even in hard cornering.

The sump oil pan needs modifying to hold more oil because as soon as you turn the engine 45 degrees theres no where to hold the oil. I made my sump hold 2.9 litres of oil. I would recommend 3.5-4 Litres IF possible. I used the dipstick out of one my 300zx parts cars.

Do your engine mounts first and then modify the sump around the crossmember or u'll end up doing extensive crossmember surgury.

Gearbox

I used the standard gearbox but two holes are out by 30mm. I made 2 blocks up to bolts it together. It just had 2 holes in it 30mm apart. On the exhaust side I had to grind the block out a little.

Gearbox adapter:
[URL=http://img189.imageshack.us/i/righthand ... nttes.jpg/]

I used 2 sandwhich plates.

You need a flywheel adapter. It spaced the flywheel out by 10mm. You will need to find a precision machinist with a milling machine and lathe. I used the standard F10a Clutch,flywheel and starter motor.

You need to weld a bracket onto the engine mount for he clutch cable.

Fuel System

You need a surge tank. It needs one hole down the bottom leading to the EFI Fuel pump and 3 holes at the top. One for the low pressure fuel pump. One for fuel return line to tank and one for fuel return line from the engine. If you don't use the return line to the tank a vacuum will be created in the surge tank and every now and then your car will starve of fuel. Yes it happened to me.

You'l also need a EFI Fuel Filter after the EFI fuel pump.

Ignition
You need a EFI coil and Ignitor. A U13 bluebird is almost perfect you just have to solder a plug on to suit the coil. But endeavour to find a COMPLETE PACKAGE or front cut as it'l make the conversion many headaches less.

I couldn't find the rev counter wire from the ECU so I linked it into one of the ignitor wires.

Induction
I put my turbo air hoses around the back on the engine over the top of the gearbox to the intercooler and then into the throttle body.

Radiator
I changed the lower outlet/inlet port to the other side of the radiator and ran the top radiator hose to the rear of the engine where its radiator port is.

I recommend getting a larger radiator too.[/b]

[j-six]

Thanks NozMonkey for the great inputs and the idea. =) let me ask a few questions again if you dont mind =)

Hmm...for the clutch cable, did you use the original F10a cable? And for the oil dipstick, since it's deep i have to source out a long oil dipstick, right?

As for the radiator, i guess there lies another problem with respect to engine bay space. Some people here just increase the radiator space by adding an additional row in the radiator. The original super carry radiator usually overheats due to lack of additional cooling mechanism in the radiator, so it's either they add an additional radiator fan or additional row in the radiator.

As for the engine bay, it's really recommended to have almost all Wagon R parts like the coil and igniter right, rather than sourcing it out?