thanks for that brayden but the matiz speedo does not fit :s
i put the seatbelts from the matiz in the boy, had to cut a bit of the tongue the matiz seatbelt has and move the bolt hole further up. the matiz seatbelts click in to the mighty boy seatbelt things.
i put all the interior back together and it looks so different, its a different car. sorry for bad pic of the console but its in there all nice and neat, i can get a close up if someone wants.
also put the bump on the bonnet, iv seen a lot of commodores with this kind of thing on their bonnet and as much as i hate those who r young, dumb and full of cum it was the only way to have a bonnet that closes.
edit: pro tip, took the carpets out of the car and used a damp (not wet) cloth and gave it a good rub down, works a treat to get rid of hairs and muck and all kinds of crap.
arklan f8c engine swap
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RetroHatch
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 8:06 pm
- Location: Cessnock, NSW
milton wrote:Dunny lid?
2nd that
Tailgating my Hatch doesnt increase the horsepower of the F5A
as u all know, i remodeled my subframe by removing a piece and then putting another piece in its place of a different shape. the piece put back is far stronger than the original but heres the clincher.
billie u were dead right it is caster and at speed it handles like a tractor.
when we welded the new piece of subframe on, i bolted the front part up to the car so that it would be correct but its somehow been a few mm forward or back so now the sway bar is a few mm out.
im pretty sure the pieces added have made it a few mm longer and given it a bit of negative caster so thats something ill have to play with. its not much but its enough to notice.
it used to be worse but i swapped the struts around and that seemed to cut the problem in half.
anyway just giving an update on this thread.
pics to come with the dunny lid.
u can now tell me u told me so
forgot to add, it goes like a rocket now 
billie u were dead right it is caster and at speed it handles like a tractor.
when we welded the new piece of subframe on, i bolted the front part up to the car so that it would be correct but its somehow been a few mm forward or back so now the sway bar is a few mm out.
im pretty sure the pieces added have made it a few mm longer and given it a bit of negative caster so thats something ill have to play with. its not much but its enough to notice.
it used to be worse but i swapped the struts around and that seemed to cut the problem in half.
anyway just giving an update on this thread.
pics to come with the dunny lid.
u can now tell me u told me so
- i took those 2 driving lights out of the centre of the roo bar, they didnt work anyway
Last edited by arklan on Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.
before and after the sandblasters did the tray, and i had to paint it myself.
now i would normally be happy but the f*#king wankers broke the hard cover off the car and treated the boy like a piece of shit. the drivers door handle is lose and now it has a slight knock in the passenger side front so im guessing the guy has got in the car, pulled the door hard like hes driving a truck, driven it like a rally car over all the potholes he can find and then done a tour of wangara because there is an 8th of a tank less than when i dropped it off.
its the sandblasters in bills machinery, my advise for anyone getting any sandblasting done is never to take it to bills machinery
about the caster thing i found that the wheelbase on the passenger side is 4mm longer than on the drivers side
now i would normally be happy but the f*#king wankers broke the hard cover off the car and treated the boy like a piece of shit. the drivers door handle is lose and now it has a slight knock in the passenger side front so im guessing the guy has got in the car, pulled the door hard like hes driving a truck, driven it like a rally car over all the potholes he can find and then done a tour of wangara because there is an 8th of a tank less than when i dropped it off.
its the sandblasters in bills machinery, my advise for anyone getting any sandblasting done is never to take it to bills machinery
- bar.GIF (5.76 KiB) Viewed 1446 times
the metal washer closest to the front of the car is welded on to the swaybar so i got the idea that if i cut it off and then thread the swaybar up to that point i could then adjust the caster as much as i like in any direction.
what do u guys think?
Good in theory but without going into too much detail the extra thread will create high stress concentration areas and the thing will snap off which is not a good idea. if you had a spare bar you could give it a go to see if it solves your issues.
Cheers
Paul
Cheers
Paul
went and saw the race car mechanic again and found out a few things.
the fuel smell i was getting was coming from the "genuine sard" fuel regulator vacuum connector, took the connector off and put hose and a clamp straight to it and fuel smell is gone. its very gradually getting louder tho so dunno how long it will last.
the problem i was having with wheels returning and handling like a tractor are down to 2 things, i had 15mm of toe in on the drivers side and 5mm of toe in on the passenger side which made it really difficult on corners and the nut thats in the middle of the strut top was way loose especially on the passenger side. when i rock the car that bolt would come out and say hello to the world and then disappear in to the depths.
done up those bolts until they bottomed out and it still has a slight bit of movement so i need to get replacement strut tops.
with the toe in corrected and those nuts done up all the way its a different car.
the one on the passenger side had come lose before and i tightened it up so i thought it couldnt be that but sure enough it was that.
i fixed the issue of the the driver side having caster with a round file on the swaybar mount and then welding some washers to it so now they r even.
to sum up, i need replacement strut tops for the boy. mine r perished and you see the cracks all through it, i didnt think it was much of an issue but if the nut is lose even when its bottomed out then its gotta be fixed
the fuel smell i was getting was coming from the "genuine sard" fuel regulator vacuum connector, took the connector off and put hose and a clamp straight to it and fuel smell is gone. its very gradually getting louder tho so dunno how long it will last.
the problem i was having with wheels returning and handling like a tractor are down to 2 things, i had 15mm of toe in on the drivers side and 5mm of toe in on the passenger side which made it really difficult on corners and the nut thats in the middle of the strut top was way loose especially on the passenger side. when i rock the car that bolt would come out and say hello to the world and then disappear in to the depths.
done up those bolts until they bottomed out and it still has a slight bit of movement so i need to get replacement strut tops.
with the toe in corrected and those nuts done up all the way its a different car.
the one on the passenger side had come lose before and i tightened it up so i thought it couldnt be that but sure enough it was that.
i fixed the issue of the the driver side having caster with a round file on the swaybar mount and then welding some washers to it so now they r even.
to sum up, i need replacement strut tops for the boy. mine r perished and you see the cracks all through it, i didnt think it was much of an issue but if the nut is lose even when its bottomed out then its gotta be fixed
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this clear hose in the middle of the picture, what the hell is this? it smells like petrol.
i never really paid any attention to it and thought it was to do with the wiper washers.
it used to go through the gromet (circled) but i cant remember what it connected to.
i never really paid any attention to it and thought it was to do with the wiper washers.
it used to go through the gromet (circled) but i cant remember what it connected to.
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