Hey all, I got a f8b from wreckers, $40 bucks.
I pulled it apart seeing how it is, and
It looks brand new inside, pistons have no carbon deposot on them, the bore is smooth and clean, and head seems good.
My question is i may of rotated the camshaft a few times whiilst trying to get cam gear off. New timing belt and head gasket should arrive soon. How can i tell if there right? Like 1 revolutuion of camshaft is to of the crank? Something like that. How can i tell if there set right? So i dont go bending valves? If you can understand what i mean, not good at explaining it. And without starting a new topic, would i be able to get a clutch but not the clutch kit, i just need the plate as its worn, the diaphram or pressure plate, the plate that sits infront is fine, surface is smooth and all.
Thanks.
Camshaft & Crankshaft Alignment
get a copy of the workshop manual...
you will need to line up the TDC mark on the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the cam pulley. Attach cam belt and then have to confirm whether you are on a compression stroke or exhaust stroke on cylinder 1. Rotate until you are on a compression stroke and then take out the dizzy from the block and insert it shown in the manual, so that you are firing on a compression stroke not a an exhaust stroke.....
It's easier if you see pics rather than me explaining it, so download the manual from here....
http://www.tamon.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
you will need to line up the TDC mark on the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the cam pulley. Attach cam belt and then have to confirm whether you are on a compression stroke or exhaust stroke on cylinder 1. Rotate until you are on a compression stroke and then take out the dizzy from the block and insert it shown in the manual, so that you are firing on a compression stroke not a an exhaust stroke.....
It's easier if you see pics rather than me explaining it, so download the manual from here....
http://www.tamon.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
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Been up all night reading on here lol.
Umm. If the piston has a dish in it, i assume that means like a hole, not really a hole like, lol well im sure you know what im trying to say. Well if it has a dish, does that mean its been bored or something? Are the stock pistons flat?
Because both my engines have dishes, just one dish isent full of crap.
Umm. If the piston has a dish in it, i assume that means like a hole, not really a hole like, lol well im sure you know what im trying to say. Well if it has a dish, does that mean its been bored or something? Are the stock pistons flat?
Because both my engines have dishes, just one dish isent full of crap.
I should have mentioned to align the mark for TDC on the crank and cam shaft before you put the head back on as this eliminates the risk of bending a valve if your timing is way off (i can't remember off hand if the f8b/f5a engines are interference or not...).
from memory the std. pistons have a dish in them and slight flycuts for the valves... oversized pistons should have a number stamped on the top like 0.5 otherwise there is noway to tell you have bigger pistons unless you have a bore gauge.
from memory the std. pistons have a dish in them and slight flycuts for the valves... oversized pistons should have a number stamped on the top like 0.5 otherwise there is noway to tell you have bigger pistons unless you have a bore gauge.
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Wow, that sounds like a really good buy for that price!
As for the clutch, you should be able to get just the clutch plate separate from the pressure plate. Might have to go to a specialist clutch place tho. I'd suggest changing the spigot & thrust bearings while it's apart tho. They are not too expensive.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
As for the clutch, you should be able to get just the clutch plate separate from the pressure plate. Might have to go to a specialist clutch place tho. I'd suggest changing the spigot & thrust bearings while it's apart tho. They are not too expensive.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
Already has a new thrust bearing. Clutch just seems abit to worn for my liking, best to do it now whilst its out.
Theres basically a 50/50 chance i can get it right. With the cam, as long as the cranks lined up and the cam is, just hope the cam is right.
Might have to get someone who knows how to do it.
I got pics on my facebook of it, im amazed how clean it was. I cant read any marks on the pistons to indicate been bored, but the bore is soo smooth that it must have.
Anyone know if im going to need an engineers cert for the f8b in brisy?
Oh just a thought, is the old morris mini and mighty boy engine bays similar size?
Theres basically a 50/50 chance i can get it right. With the cam, as long as the cranks lined up and the cam is, just hope the cam is right.
Might have to get someone who knows how to do it.
I got pics on my facebook of it, im amazed how clean it was. I cant read any marks on the pistons to indicate been bored, but the bore is soo smooth that it must have.
Anyone know if im going to need an engineers cert for the f8b in brisy?
Oh just a thought, is the old morris mini and mighty boy engine bays similar size?
No idea on the bay size. On the timing cover there are marks that you need to align to the marks on the cam & crank gears, then you slip you belt over, then finally fit the belt tensioner.
IIRC there is one above the crank cog & one below the cam cog. IIRC you align the marks on the cogs with the marks on the timing cover, they will be pointing towards each other. But please check the manual which is online on this site to make certain of the procedure.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
IIRC there is one above the crank cog & one below the cam cog. IIRC you align the marks on the cogs with the marks on the timing cover, they will be pointing towards each other. But please check the manual which is online on this site to make certain of the procedure.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
I know how to align it all, just that i may of spun the cam, which would of cause put the timing out.
If the mini is the same size, you can fit a b16b engine in there, if the subframe is the same, which it probz wouldnt, theres a front subframe kit for mini's that will allow a vtec to go right in.
I think i spun the cam backwards, and the crank back abit to.
Soo confusing. I might just get a mobile mechanic to find out if its on the right stroke, i dont want to stuff anything up by having the cam out, i'll look at the manual and try, but most probaly wont have a clue what to do lol.
Thanks for your help.
If the mini is the same size, you can fit a b16b engine in there, if the subframe is the same, which it probz wouldnt, theres a front subframe kit for mini's that will allow a vtec to go right in.
I think i spun the cam backwards, and the crank back abit to.
Soo confusing. I might just get a mobile mechanic to find out if its on the right stroke, i dont want to stuff anything up by having the cam out, i'll look at the manual and try, but most probaly wont have a clue what to do lol.
Thanks for your help.
Doesn't matter what position the cam & crank are in, if you align the marks as per the manual you will be fine!
Cheers
ToranaGuy
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
like toranaguy said as long as the timing marks are aligned with how it is in the manual you will be fine.....
to double check rotate the crank (with timing belt already fitted) around a few times and check that the marks do indeed line back up again. This also checks if you have the right tension on the timing belt as too much slack will mean that they will not line up properly after one revolution....
once timing has been checked rotate the crank to the TDC markings and check to see if the exhaust or intake valves (take off the cam cover and just physically look to see if the cam lobe is hitting the rocker arm which will be compressing the valve spring and opening the valve) have been opened on cylinder 1 (the one closest to the timing belt).
If they are open rotate the crank to the timing marks again and now check the valves again....if they are both closed take out the dizzy and put it back in how the manual says.
put all covers back in and start up the car.
to double check rotate the crank (with timing belt already fitted) around a few times and check that the marks do indeed line back up again. This also checks if you have the right tension on the timing belt as too much slack will mean that they will not line up properly after one revolution....
once timing has been checked rotate the crank to the TDC markings and check to see if the exhaust or intake valves (take off the cam cover and just physically look to see if the cam lobe is hitting the rocker arm which will be compressing the valve spring and opening the valve) have been opened on cylinder 1 (the one closest to the timing belt).
If they are open rotate the crank to the timing marks again and now check the valves again....if they are both closed take out the dizzy and put it back in how the manual says.
put all covers back in and start up the car.
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Ohh. I allready took the dizzy out when pulling it apart. So if i just line the crank to top dead centre after doing the timing belt, it wont matter if i had turned the crank around? Then put the dizzy in how the manual said?
That seems abit to easy, i hope thats all it is.
Thanks heaps.
Oh i pulled my other engine apart and the timing marks with the f8a timing belt still line up.
That seems abit to easy, i hope thats all it is.
Thanks heaps.
Oh i pulled my other engine apart and the timing marks with the f8a timing belt still line up.
- Ralf the RR
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- Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 7:55 pm
- Location: Newcastle
Not quite.nova_66 wrote:Ohh. I allready took the dizzy out when pulling it apart. So if i just line the crank to top dead centre after doing the timing belt, it wont matter if i had turned the crank around? Then put the dizzy in how the manual said?
That seems abit to easy, i hope thats all it is.
Thanks heaps.
There are 2 TDCs. One exhaust, and one power.
To determine which is which, put your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine over. You'll work it out.
(oh, you'll want the power stroke)
Harry
Oil leaks are a factory rust prevention option
Oil leaks are a factory rust prevention option
the power stroke will force your finger off the spark plug hole...
yes then stick the dizzy back in, but make sure it's alignment markings are correct also (the pics in the manual are quite good)...
yes then stick the dizzy back in, but make sure it's alignment markings are correct also (the pics in the manual are quite good)...
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