F8c transplant

[gadj]

Now wishing I had sufficient funding & room to return "the red one" to G10a.
I have 2 MB's - "Wide Load" has G10a & 5sp but not complied - "the red one" is complied.
I am not yet certain of the mounts but it appears the L & R are MightyBoy parts. I have not seen the lower rear yet. the top engine steady is early Swift. The drive shafts in mine (I am told) are modified MB - hacksaw groove on the inner spline.
When I finally get around to putting the drive train back into "the red one" photos will be posted.
The post on engine conversions covers differences between Swift models, my drive train is from the first model.

[Hewball]

I'm still a fan of the F8B because you can start the swap after breakfast and be driving it by lunchtime.

i will vouch for this one, ive had drivable to out and gearbox change and driveable again in just a tad over 3 hours, after like the 5th time its been done its like rinse and repeat over again


aka its easy!

Hopefully get the paint finished this weekend, then test fitting the engine too...

Cheers Hewball

[Husky]

Looks like Im headed down the F8b route to change from my F5a.
I just want to confim that the change over is not to complicated.
When I pull my F5a out I can unbolt the Auto box and bolt Straight onto the F8b(Hatch) The motor will come with The inlet manifold and Carby(manual). Change some diapram on F5a auto carby to F8b manual carby?
use the F5a exhaust manifold? Its coming with engine mounts as well.
Anything else I need to know?
Also should I flush the radiator all recore or find a new one?
Cheers

[Billie]

The engine cradle from f5a needs to be used, i found out the hard way lol.

[Husky]

Thanks Billie,
So when I take the engine out I unbolt the cradle/subframe that the motor is bolted on and use it for the F8b.
Do I unbolt the motor first with subframe on or pull motor out with subframe attached?
Thanks

[Brayden]

The "cradle" Billie is talking about is the lower engine mount bracket on the driver's side of the motor. If you try and use one from an SS80V F8B it puts the engine out of alignment, which in turn means that the rear engine mount and gearbox steady don't line up.

The engine subframe/cradle stays in situ when you remove the motor/box. All you need to do is unbolt the engine mounts from the subframe and pull them out with the motor.

[Husky]

Thanks,
Well watch this space. Hopefully it will be done in the next week or two.
If theres any other beginner tips please let me know.

[Brayden]

Read the conversion guide.

[Billie]

Lol theres a bolt on the side of the gearbox that holds the speedo drive in

[ToranaGuy]

I was looking at a f8c matiz at the auctions the other day, noted the a/c comp is where the alternator is on the F8b, and the alternator is behind the engine, where there is nothing on the F8b in a alto/mighty boy.

Anybody know if the brackets can be bolted onto a F8b to fit the alternator & a/c just like in the matiz?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

[Billie]

The a/c is bigger than the alternator, if your looking to have more space for a turbo.

[Brayden]

There's no reason you can't make brackets to put the alternator on the back and A/C compressor on the front - that's how F6A motors are configured (with or without A/C the alt is still on the back).

[ToranaGuy]

The a/c is bigger than the alternator, if your looking to have more space for a turbo.

I wasn't thinking about it from that angle, but that is a consideration.....

I was thinking about the higher capacity alternator & maybe easier to get a/c comp?

I was wondering if the F8c brackets would bolt on by any chance?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

[Jermaine]

my alt is at the back, used the origonal bottom mount, and cut and shut the top one to fit.. but i have to get a shorter belt, cause if it turn left hard and power on, the alt hits the chassi..

[ToranaGuy]

my alt is at the back, used the origonal bottom mount, and cut and shut the top one to fit.. but i have to get a shorter belt, cause if it turn left hard and power on, the alt hits the chassi..

Really? Far out.

Cheers

ToranaGuy