arklan f8c engine swap

[Psi_Wagon]

fpr's should always be on the Return line, after the fuel rail.

[arklan]

fpr came today yay
iv lost the usb cord for my camera so iv ripped off a pic from google
http://www.tunersgroup.com/images/large/large667.jpg

it looks like the smaller one except its blue, the instructions r in japanese so iv been googling how it goes together and want to get some confirmation.
the silver part at the top of the pic and has a dog leg goes to the vacuum line.
the part at the bototm of the pic goes to the tank/where fuel goes out.
the one on the side is where the fuel comes in/from pump.
and theres a alan key screw for the guage also on the side.

is all of this correct? if so and im mounting the fpr near the tank is it better to have it as close to the pump as possible or can i put it where the return line connects to the tank?
and if that silver dog leg is for the vacuum then ill need to run a small vacuum line down to the back of the car, will there be any lag from the fpr due to the distance?

edit; found the cord

[Psi_Wagon]

see attached pic for the hose layout. but you will want to mount it in the engine bay, not only for the ease of hooking up vacuum, but theres no point having an adjustable fuel reg if you cant get to it

[arklan]

yeah i went and seen my dads friend who is a mechanic for race cars and he said the same thing, if i run a vacuum line down to the fuel tank there will be terrible lag

on another note here is step 2 of the hard cover , next step is to sand it and coat in fiberglass, then cover it in that white grass. the white grass has a rubber backing so it will make a nice seal.

[arklan]

fitted the fpr today, very happy with todays progress.
i used the t piece out of the matiz and kept one of the fuel lines from it because it has the plug for the fuel filter which will make changing it easier.
i had exactly enough efi hose left to connect it up

back to the radiator thing again and there is virtually no room, i dont know if its gonna fit or not but with a good mix of magyver it should be ok

[arklan]

proud day today, apart from the air cleaner (which i have no idea how im gonna do) its all there and connected. just need the sparky to come and do his magic

[arklan]

ITS ALIVE ITS ALIVE
the sparky spent all day on it and did a really professional looking job.
only cost 600 bucks too, im really really pleased
next step is to put the bump in the bonnet so it can shut and then im on the road

[Psi_Wagon]

you should relocate your battery to the tray, then theres plenty of room for a good airbox setup

[arklan]

so apparently the alternator has shit itself, the sparky reckons its most likely the regulator.
he wasnt getting any charge to the battery when he tested the leads and says the leads r connected properly.

i have to pull the drivers side wheel and cv out to get the alternator out so before i do that is there anything else that can cause no charge to the battery?

[Tez]

At Albury Gathering #1, Brokenshire rolled into the park with a charge light glowing on the dashboard.
It had begun the Wednesday evening prior - and with judicial recharging by 240v, he made it down from Sydney.
We set upon his engine bay and never really did verify just exactly what was causing the failure to charge - his altenator was putting out voltage, it just wasn't getting to the battery. We ended up jury-rigging a substitute feed directly from the alt to the batt. and all was good - apart from the incessant light on the dash...

[arklan]

now the bonnet closes

[RetroHatch]

Thats one way to solve it, NICE, love it!!

[arklan]

hard cover wip

[arklan]

im thinking to put the speedo from the matiz in to the boy, my measurements show that the speedos r the same size but i dont want to start pulling the dash out until i get some info first.
do i have to pull the whole dash out to get to the cluster or can i just pull out the cluster and leave the dash in there? can the speedo come out by itself in the boy? how much of a head fark is this unassuming job going to be do u think?

[Brayden]

8 screws and the instrument cluster will come out, but you're best off reaching behind the dash and unplugging the wiring and speedo cable first. Once you've removed the cluster it can be disassembled easily with care.