Team MightyBoy

So. I have a fair collection of bits and pieces:

Have:
* My car - complete and running but with a very sick F5a in it, about to come out - bog standard & manual.
* A complete and sweetly running Suzuki 800 Auto donor.
* Another F8b motor (from a manual) extracted about three years ago - complete less gearbox - was running with an ever so slightly whispy blue exhaust suggesting it could be a little tired.
* An F8B Gearbox
* The usual tools - chain block etc. Garage.... etc.
* Usual consumables - New plugs, points, rotor, condensor, dizzy cap, leads, coil, oil, oil filter, air filter, gearbox oil etc.

Need:
* Clutch Kit
* ? ? ?

My plan at this time is to pull the motor & trans from the Auto 800 Hatch. Swap the carburettor from the stored manual F8b onto it, - Should I swap the dissy too? - aren't they curved differently between autos and manuals? - split off the auto trans and fit up the Manual box with a new clutch and drop that into the 'boy. Fit all new consumables and fluids and hopefully it'll run nicely. ( Sounds easy when you say it fast! )
Even though I have seen F8b installs using just the original engine steady, I plan to use the second engine steady that is present on the 800 hatch in the boy.
What am I forgetting or missing?

hey Tez welcome back

im not 100% but if the suzi motors are anything like the other motors ive dealt with, if you use the auto motor and put a manual behind it, the crank seal will most likely be different, make sure you use the manual one!


are you going to rebuilt it or put it in as-is?

This is exciting!

Are you aware that the second engine steady won't quite fit without some modification?

-Angas

I can tell you from experience that the second engine steady is dead weight if your engine mounts are in good condition.

The only other advice I can give is that if you're swapping a manual box onto an F8B that was bolted to an auto, you need to install the timing marker from a manual motor. Apart from that if you swap the carby and dizzy then everything else should be the same.
The only other snag will be that sometimes the speedo drives don't match up. Some are male and others are female. You can mate two females using a steel tab, but two males means you need to swap the speedo cable.

Ok...
Thanks for the hints guys - Keep 'em coming!
Having never pulled an auto trans off an engine, what will I find in there? - I know there is a flywheel, because the engine wouldn't run without it - but is it different to a 'manual' flywheel - will I need to swap that also?

There isn't a flywheel, but a flex plate which is bolted to the torque converter. The whole thing needs to be removed from the crankshaft and a manual flywheel installed in its place.

Far out... Where does time go? - I was last talking about this in January and it's now June... Seems like it was only last week
Anyway... I ordered a clutch kit today (collect on Friday) and have been doing lots of planning and making space... I hate how life always seems to get complicated just when you don't want/need it to...
Anyway... Reading up on clutch fitment, it would seem my life would be easier with the "Special Suzuki Tool # 09923-37810 - Clutch Center Guide" (REAL!) which I don't have... If someone DOES HAVE this tool (or equivalent) and can give me the dimensions, I'm pretty sure I can get one made... Any help appreciated...

Hey Tez , the tool shown aligns the clutch plate with the centre of the spigot bearing , a kit from ebay (universal fitting http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from ... l&_sacat=0 can be purchased for $25 or more) or you can use a piece of dowel that fits in the spigot bearing and wrap it with tape till the clutch plate just fits on it and use that. If you want to get rid of the F8B auto I am looking for one

Ok, so the parts transplant is underway... A gasket for refitting the manual carby to the intake manifold is apparently scarce - 4 phonecalls today turned up a fat lot of nothing... I notice the two intake manifolds are quite different. Is this going to be an issue? Also... Could those that have done this before me please advise... I've removed the six bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft, but it still seems firmly attached - I'm hoping just years of tension to overcome, but not wanting to damage anything thought I'd ask how I coax it off from here? Lastly... I notice this flywheel has had some dental work... Some of the teeth have been ground down... Is this still serviceable, or bin fodder? Thanks for any assistance, guys!

1. Buy a roll of gasket paper and cut the gasket yourself.
2. The difference between the manifolds is that the auto has two temperature controlled vacuum solenoids (that you don't need on a manual setup) and that particular auto manifold has an EGR controller on it.
3. The flywheel is likely stuck with rust. Tap it with a rubber mallet, working your way around the circumference.
4. The burring on the flywheel doesn't look too bad, but I'd check you make sure your starter throwout is fully extending.

Thanks Brayden!
Would hate to get too gung-ho and stuff up something at this point!
So I assume I can remove the two vacuum solenoids and the EGR and plug all the holes...
Cheers

So the flywheel is off - I spent about a half-hour polishing up the edge and then whiting the graduations so I'll be able to see them when setting the timing I'll run it down to the local brake place in the morning and get the face tidied up... I'm also painting the timing pointer (from the manual motor) white so it will be easier to see also And I had a go at removing the two vacuum solenoids.... The one on the left came out relatively easily, (after I realised the spanner was binding on the temperature sender underneath ) and the EGR came off exposing two ports and two bolt holes. I'll fabricate a small coverplate from some 3.0mm steel I have here to blank off the holes. The second Solenoid though, is being a bitch and in spite of the fact I'm using the correct spanner on it, it is refusing to budge - I can't get the ring end on it because of the two nozzles and the brass is rounding. I might have to get ugly with it tomorrow and delete the nozzles so I CAN get the ring end on it, or use some assertive persuasion in the form of vicegrips or similar on it. I don't hold much hope for it's successful extraction, but extracted it will be!
I'll be fitting a blanking plug in each port - does anyone know what thread these fittings are? I got some 0.8mm Gasket paper today, so I can make the carby/inlet manifold gasket, and now another for the EGR blanking plate

I've probably got a spare F8B manual manifold if that would make things easier for you.

Thanks Brayden, but I'm getting it sorted... Popped the closest port off the 'obstinant' solenoid this afternoon (was brittle anyway) and the ring end of the spanner went on... Buggered the solenoid, but the ring end did the trick, it's out too now. - Now I need to get a couple of blanking plugs and that's sorted. Made up a small blanking plate out of the 3.0mm plate I mentioned, and cut some gaskets today, so it's slowly coming together... Would be a little more enthusiastic if the torque wrench I ordered on Tuesday had arrived Friday as they promised... Can't do anything up until I have that, so bit of a casual weekend this weekend. (Too freakin cold to do much! < yeah, I know, Canberra is colder - but hey! - I didn't ask you to live there! > )
I hope to drop the flywheel in to the brake place Monday lunchtime, and pick it up Tuesday lunchtime, so if the Torque wrench hasn't made an appearance by Tuesday night, then I'll be pissed... What does a 'machining' of a flywheel usually cost (ballpark) ?

About $50 and 20minutes, had heaps done