550 Auto convert to 800 Auto

MightyBoy tech questions and answers.
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MBUTE
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 4:59 pm
Location: NSW

I have searched and read many wonderous things about an F8B upgrade.
My question to the MB gurus, who know is, can I use my 550 auto Carby and inlet manifold plus the exhaust manifold on a F8B block (keeping the auto g/b)
I understand I may have to rejet the carby and that, the auto gb off a 550 will rev higher at 100k (I can live with that)
How critical are these vacumm tubes off an auto carby? Do they really serve a worthwhile purpose?
How different is the 550 carb Auto or Man to an 800carb?
How about the exhaust manifold?
Is there a larger readily available bigger radiator to suit such a conversion given this is an auto coversion? :doh:
Last edited by MBUTE on Tue Apr 12, 2005 10:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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oti
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edit: fixed
Last edited by oti on Thu Apr 21, 2005 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
altoworks.info now being domain squatted... joy.
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MBUTE
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Location: NSW

:hurl: I agree! I forgot it was on a grey background! I think I've changed it.
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Colin
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hte auto box is the same
the carbs and the manifolds are bigger on the 800
MORE BEER! :beer:
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Brayden
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The radiator on auto 550 and 800's is the same size - so you're in luck there. Colin is right about the gearbox too, although there is some hearsay that the 550 auto is different to the 800, I'm confident they are the same having driven both types.

As Colin said though, the carby and manifolds (inlet and outlet) are larger on an 800. Rejetting a 550 carby is really a bandaid fix. I tried it and found that doing that generated a flat spot and other nasty side-effects.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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MBUTE
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Location: NSW

Just picked up a 800 F8B complete with Auto off a 1983 hatch. I want to slip it right in after I attend to the Carby that looks filthy but was told it did run fine, (that's what they all say if the motor hasn't turned over in almost three years!) Still, I was amazed how quickly we, or he, whiped out the engine and box. I even got the auto radiator.
The car was located in a rural shed and the engine was full with what looked like clean oil and the auto was full with tranny oil. The engine I was told had been done a year before it went into a 3yr hibernation and I have no reason to doubt it, as the gasket goo looks clean and fresh.
I am planning to give the carb a good clean out and am considering leaving my mb 500 auto box and just swapping the engine, as there is nothing wrong with my auto and the 800 hatch auto looks a little different.
Firstly the auto box on the mb 500 (1986) has stamped on the top part of the box "TYPE D" whereas the hatch 800 auto does not. Secondly the hatch auto has something that looks like a mechanical oil pump that takes the oil from the radiator cooler near the selector mechanism on the box, the mb 500 auto just runs in direct. Thirdly the auto sump on the hatch looks like it has a different shape; though, it could be the way i've looked at it without the crossmember there in situ.
One final thing unrelated to the auto is the 800 does not have a stove pipe running from the exhaust manifold to somewhere near the carby inlet manifold.
Is it a pain in the butt changing the enginge alone leaving the gearbox in situ?? \:D/
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Brayden
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Much easier to throw a pulley on the engine and box and pull out in one hit, exchange all the bits and put it back in.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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Josh
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Until I get a chance to drive one, I'm very sceptical that the F8B auto would be geared to rev as hard as the F5A auto does at 100km/h.
Last edited by Josh on Thu Apr 21, 2005 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MBUTE
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Location: NSW

Brayden, in your coversion article on the site, you mention polishing the intake manifold (dremel).... The chap that i got this engine off tells me it is great idea to polish and smooth out the intake on the head as well. His suggestion seems like a good idea to complement what you mention about the intake manifold?
Plus; the mighty boy(and I imagine hatch 500) does not come with an extra brace/ mount that holds the engine just that little extra on the left hand strut ( as you look into the engine) it's a simple plate and mount that bolts on to existing bolts, and so on, and has a mount similar to the central top engine mount. I like the idea and I want to fit one in as well. Is this really required now that I am going to fit the 800?
Excuse my ignorance but does anyone mention this optional extra (but important) addition to the conversion? I imagine you or anyone else are aware of this bracket/mount?
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Josh
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The bracket of which you speak is not necessary, it just helps smooth out some of the engine rock on load-on/load-off.
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MBUTE
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humm, maybe i should keep the auto box thats there already?!
One question... if/when i do get around to pull out the whole thing, how high should the engine/gearbox be lifted so that I can tyre lever the shafts from the diff?

what would a near perfect (esp carb) 543 engine plus auto be worth to someone? it easily gets to 110k. 123000 always serviced and as clean as the internals of a swiss watch? (the metal work is sparkling?)
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Josh
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$2 :lol:
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mowog
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Before you lift anything put the pry bar in and break the seal on the axle by levering the inner cv joint back a few mm. Then its a case of lift a bit, pry a bit, lift a bit, pry a bit. If you try to lift too much in one hit the cv jams. Drain the gearbox oil first or you will have a mess, give it plenty of time to drain, like overnight.
My 800 conversion has the top stay bar, it was on the 543 engine also.
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MBUTE
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 4:59 pm
Location: NSW

Just got my hands on a Hatch 800 Auto transmission supplement manual. (1984)
I have discovered that the f8b/auto set up I got to replace the F5a auto in my MB is actually an f8b manual engine setup with an Auto hooked onto it.
I am wondering how essential it is to have all the auto carby set up including inlet and exhaust manifolds.
There seems to be a number of vaccum pipes and carby attachments to keep the carby running rich whilst the car is in D or when it is coasting.
Does this mean my setup once fitted in the car will want to stall, so use more choke? or should I just run the carby richer?
Will it effect the gear shift in anyway??
I guess, I am asking, how essential is it to run a auto carb set up with all the bits and pieces???
Has anyone tried this??
I am happy to scan an email this supplement to anyone who thinks they could use it; or at least give it to someone who can post it up on the site for all to see the differences as there is a great section, clearly showing the different components for and AUTO and a MANUAL.
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MBUTE
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Location: NSW

This information is for anyone who is interested.
Spent whole Sunday taking out the tired F5A plus Auto and putting in the F8B and its Auto..................... WOW! what a difference!!! :D :D :D
There's were some issues though. Firstly the $80 i spent on the carby kit was wasted (need more time to sought out the problem and I bet it is the F*** float needle!) Secondly The F8b engine although hooked up to an Auto was actually a manual engined carby and exhaust manifold set up. I was really worried that this would not make the auto work well. In the end it did not mean much at all. It would not go with the rebuilt 800 carb so after some despair we just threw on the auto F5A carb and, guess what? It worked just fine, it's a bit throaty but plenty of torque up to 100clicks, then it begs for more juice..... at least this is what I think. Will an 800 carb make it go better? I am please with what's happening now.Thirdly, I was dumb not to pull apart the dizzy and clean it; it went all silly on me with plenty of iron filings to show, again I just whipped off the f5a dizzy and presto, no issues.
I am so pleased with the auto to auto conversion 500 to 800 I recommend it to any lazy sod who wants to do the same. I can only imagine how quick an 800 manual would be. At least now I can drive it up any incline without giving the person behind me the shits. I gets to every speed(20,30,40,etc) in no time.
I now have a F5A AUTO CARB I will gladly swap for a dirty but working F8B carb preferably an Auto carb.
I have PDF'ed many pages of the Hatch with Auto supplement to Brayden.
It's a great source of information on autos.
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