Paint stripping

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Billie
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

Hey i'm going crazy with the paint stripper at the moment, its impossible to get into every spot with it and scrape it off.

I'm doing a bare metal respray, well im not but im scraping it back and etch primering it.

Anyone have any tips on doing this? What should i put on first, primer, rust proof, fish oil.

Would a sand blaster do the trick? Maybe a beed blaster?

Just want it all off, taking forever.
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Dave
Posts: 458
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:13 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland

Rust proof then primer?

Sand Blasting would be good to get in the hard to reach places and probably quicker than scraping it. You can get all the stuff you need for sand blasting from supercrap i'm pretty sure too.

Cheers
Dave
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Billie
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

I have a sand blaster from supercheap, it would take about 10 years and a million dollars of sand blast to do it with that lol.

My dad said his mate has a industrial sand blaster, so hopefully he can do the whole car for me, hehe.
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Jermaine
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it will more than likely warp the pannels as they are so thin
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Billie
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

Yeah, hmm. Might give it a go and if it starts doing nasty stuff then stick to paint stripper.

Its amazing how much rust there is under years of paint. especially around where the hinges and guards sit.
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Dave
Posts: 458
Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:13 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland

I have a sand blaster from supercheap, it would take about 10 years and a million dollars of sand blast to do it with that lol.

My dad said his mate has a industrial sand blaster, so hopefully he can do the whole car for me, hehe.
Hahah, true. Should have known they're shithouse lol.

Cheers
Dave
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MGirl x 3
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Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 3:08 pm
Location: Traveston, Queensland

We had an old steam gernie many years ago that would strip the paint off anything it touched....I remember doing the truck chasis's and the paint peeling.....much to hubbys disgust....lol
Just a mum who has found another passion other than her kids....."Mighty Boys" :)
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MGirl x 3
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Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 3:08 pm
Location: Traveston, Queensland

I was also thinking about doing the same thing. I am so over waiting for these panel beaters to get back to me. I have done it before and sure I can do it again........maybe when the kids go back to school so I wont get interuppted. Afterall hubby is a spraypainter/furniture polisher, so if I do all the prep work for him maybe he will do the jobs......he he
Just a mum who has found another passion other than her kids....."Mighty Boys" :)
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JB
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 11:02 pm

DO NOT use a sandblaster. It will do more damage to the MB than good. A Soda Blaster is the only abbrasive blaster you should use if you go down that path. If you continue with paint stripper, wash it with water as directed then wash over with thinners/prepwash. Scuff the entire surface to be painted with 180-400 doesn't matter too much so long as the metal has a 'tooth' for the paint to grip, then re-prepwash and spray with Epoxy primer. Then the car can sit unpainted for as long as you like. EP is non porous, and also has a rust inhibitor quality.
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Brayden
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No way I would touch a car with paint stripper unless it was a bare shell on a dolly. Paint stripper ruins anything it touches - including tyres, rubber bushes, brake lines, etc.

If you want to get the car back to bare metal then soda blasting is the best option.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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Billie
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

Brayden, the car is empy, absoulutly nothing except front suspension and rear leaves with crap 12's on it. So theres nothing to get ruined.

Jb, thanks, i'll see about getting someone to soda blast it. Thanks.
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rf4burns
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:26 pm
Location: Central QLD

You can use ilmenite (a black fine sand) in an industrial sand blaster if you are careful (run lower pressure and stand back to keep heating of panel to minium) but soda is the best option (but requires a different nozzle) both methods allow stripping to bare steel quickly. Many Zinc under coates are avaliable now (replaces lead and used widely in the industrial world) in 2 pack or single pack (i have used some of these industrial primers with good success on auto's) and a select few will allow painting over almost any type of paint (enamel,two pack,what ever) however these are not cheap unless you know someone in the industry ;also superior anti fade can be achieved using industrial top coats (poly-u 400 gives a great finish when final coat is layed on with pleanty of thinner added -see MSDS contains small amount of lead) Well thats 2 cents worth :| RF4Burns
Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
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Billie
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Location: Brisbane

Sweet. I'm just doing the primer, just so it stops getting surface rust.

Paint will be the last thing, i want everything done so none of the fresh paint gets scratched.
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gadj
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Contrary to popular belief, primer alone does not stop rust.... unless it is designed specially for that purpose.
http://www.por15.com/ shows some very nice product that I have used & can recommend. Other companies do similar products that may be more budget friendly.
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
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Billie
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

My can of primer said can protect surface from rust for up to 12 months uncoated. I think it means without been painted.
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