This may help A reluctor sensor is like a generator. It is a coil if wire wrapped around an iron core and usually have a magnet at one end. When a steel tooth passes the iron core it effects the magnetic field and creates a voltage at the end of the wire. The signal out of the sensor is like AC voltage sinewave. The shape of the tooth will effect the shape of the wave.
A hall effect sensor is electronic device that gets effected by magnetic field.
In a vane style hall effect sensor has the element on one side of the sensor and the magnet is on the other. They are seperated by an air gap where the tooth passes through. With no tooth in the air gap the element is in one state and the output of the sensor is usually 0 volt. When metal tooth is in the gap the strength of the magnetic field is stronger and the output of the hall element is 5 Volt. The wave is called a square wave. The signal goes from 0 to 5 volt and 5 to 0 Volt very quickly. A hall sensor needs a external power source to work.
There is a little more involved in how a hall sensor output works and some sensors outputs go from hi to low volts when the metal is in the sensor also some sensor dont output a voltage, they require extra components for you to measure the wave.
Generally for a magnetic sensor you need a scope to view the wave correctly but with a hall sensor you can measure the output with a voltmeter
need help have no spark
I know that the SOHC F6A has a reluctor type distributor. This is one of the reasons I went with a Microtech as it supports this out of the box.
I'm pretty confident the DOHC F6A is also reluctor-type.
I'm pretty confident the DOHC F6A is also reluctor-type.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
ok i know when i finally get back to albury braydon is gonna smack me in the head for this but after 1/2 a bottle of rum under my belt i had another go and guess what not following the instructions worked. yay i have spark the only issue i have now is that the battery went flat i have everything working now and when i get up tomorrow im gonna throw the battery on the charge and have another go and starting it, mind you this was the first time i have ever followed the instructions for anything, my theory is that if you can just look at a pic and see hwat it is ment to look like it will work is yet again correct, following the haltech book was to technical which is where i must have gotten my wires crossed. the E6X has a internal reluctor setting and does it automatically, which i found out after i had a few drinks and noticed it hidden away in the settings, will post as soon as car is running and will try to get a vid and throw on toutube.
i was going to take it to an auto lekki but they wanted 2k and that was a cash job, and that wasnt to say it was gonna work, i know the auto lekkies around here allways make sure the car comes back,i had driveing lights for example put on my datto by an auto lekki they worked 3 times and stopped working i took it back and he replaced the relay and the same thing happed the 3rd time i put the lights on it crapped itself so i went to supercheap got one and put it in and havent had any problams since. i have the battery on charge now should be able to kick t in the guts around lunch.
Yeah, know what you mean - The AutoElec we use is pretty fair with us - not that we use him much, but took us a long time to find him.
2 Grand sounds an awful lot to get an ECU working!!!
Good luck, come lunchtime
Cheers
2 Grand sounds an awful lot to get an ECU working!!!
Good luck, come lunchtime
Cheers
Tez
So the adventure continues...
So the adventure continues...
have some good news and 2 lots of bad news. good news battery is charged and i still have spark, bad news #1 the bastard wont fire, bad news #2 i cant do nething further because it's pouring rain. ive got 12 at the coil like i should and while cranking i have really good spark at the plugs enough that when i grabbed it and went to ground it and my sister turned the key it gave me a very nasty boot i wont be doing that again. but i have fuel i have spark i have compression, i have the 3 main ingreedients to get it goin just wont come to life will sort it out when it stops raining. may change over to another 12 source on te coil just in case it is droping down below 12 volts on crank.
ok here is he deal i have a bosch g40 coil have red/black connected to + and white /black connected to + and ignition module connedted to - side of coil i have a trigger signal from ecu seems like the ignition module is not doing it's job. anythoughts this has given me more then just the shits.
UUmmm posted a pic of this somewhere on the forum but I thought you said you have spark and if this is the case then as in the 1st post
" with the plugs out of the engine and cranking can you get a spark? (put the plugs in if yes) have you tried altering trigger angle to get motor to fire if you have a spark?"
(this is a software adjustment as with the sensor selection you also need to check if you have it set to fire on leading or trailing)once you have it running it possiable to set this properly.
" with the plugs out of the engine and cranking can you get a spark? (put the plugs in if yes) have you tried altering trigger angle to get motor to fire if you have a spark?"
(this is a software adjustment as with the sensor selection you also need to check if you have it set to fire on leading or trailing)once you have it running it possiable to set this properly.
Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
Anywhere after the throttle body, but avoid using the same nipple as the one used for the MAP sensor.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.