DIY paint job useing poly U400

[cozza]

thought id post up on how to do a respray on anycar useing poly U400 2 pak industrial paints.
first of all i used to be an abrasive blaster and industrial painter so i know what im talking about.

ok first of all if you are starting out with a project car that has rust. strip the car clean of all glass, lights, interior, have it either sand blasted or soda blasted, this enables you to see exactally how much rust there is this also leaves you with a very clean canvas.
when it comes to the painting, hit the whole car with a once over of wax and grease remover just to take off any contaminates.
prime the whole car in etch primer i stress that etch is very important on a blank canvas or else the whole paint job will be useless.
once you have applied the first coat of etch lightly sand back to roughen up the primer then hit it agin with at least another 2 coats of etch this will ensure that there is no imperfections in the body (hides any slight bumps in the body).

now comes the fun part CHOOSE your colour.
unfortunantly poly u400 only comes in a limited range of colours.
but this process still enables you to paint with any other automotive paints.

first of all you are going to need a 5ltr tin of poly u 400 and the 1Ltr hardner.

start at the roof paint the car in even strokes following the line of airflow when the car if moveing this makes for a much better finish when you look at it. continue down the doors following the same lines you are going to need at least 3 coats over the whole car, you need to apply them within 10 mins of each other as the paint sets rock hard in about 30 mins and is extreamely hard to paint over once set.
once you have painted the whole car set the car in a low dust enviroment out of the weather for at least 24hrs to allow the paint to set and settle you will get a very high gloss finish if done correctally.

you now have a very tough paint job that will not fade, chip, scratch or rust.

admire you handy work and you can go out bush after 7 days of the paint job.

i will be starting a thread when i come to paint mine i will be takeing photos step by step on the process. this paint job is also great for painting tin house roofs as it provides a type of insulation.

[Brayden]

Does U400 2 pack contain the same chemicals as normal 2 pack enamel?

[8]

Is it as hard as Blackote or whitekote from POR15?
The mentioned POR15 products are also rock hard, dont run,
no orange peel, dry quickly and limited to tints using white
as a base or straight black. Also pearls possible.

[cozza]

soz brayden not sure i never read the labels i just por it in the pot mix in the hardner and thinners and start spraying. i must also say i should have added to the thread that if this stuff hardens in the spray pot and gun throw the gun out and buy a new one, even if you manage to clean it you will have a paint job with little bits of crap in it no matter how you clean it. i used to stip my 4 guns every afternoon after i was done for the day and they wer soaked in thinners overnight, i had to do this every day,
i will be experimenting this weekend though useing the poly U400, i am going to add some flake to it give it a spray and see how it comes out.

[rf4burns]

Poly u 400 is a Wattyl industrial product (high in isocyanate and also one of a few paints still with lead content)I mentioned it else where in a post on here. International (another Industrial paint manufacture) offer a similar lead free paint ( 629 ) but it does not seem to cover as well (solids content?) both of these can give a pretty reasonable finish; poly u is available in only one metallic flec off the shelf (silver-used by QR). I am interested to hear how you go with the flec (should go ok )don't forget to get some pic's . RF

[Brayden]

If this paint is anything like normal 2 pack then my advice is as follows:

DO NOT USE 2 PACK PAINT WITHOUT A RESPIRATOR, VENTILATION SYSTEM AND SPRAY BOOTH.

The chemicals are highly poisonous, and inhaling them can lead to brain/lung damage. It is also illegal to spray this paint without a proper spray booth with filtered ventilation. Sorry for the strength of my response, but I wanted it to be clear.

[cozza]

lol thats ok, ill be useing my mates panel shop while he's not busy on the weekend hopefully, so ill have the booth, as for a respirator i never would suggest useing a filter type i only use a full face air fed mask and body suit (overalls), i would never spray the shit without a mask again i know all too well what happens and the long term permanant damage it does, story went as followed, i had just started the blasting and painting scene and went to replace my filter in my mask, unknown to me the filter i used was for just general dust it fuked me big time i spent allmost a whole year in hospital haveing crap scrapped outta my lungs and to top it all off i still cant breath properly which has nothing to do with my smokeing habbit , still have a checkup once a month though to make sure im not gonna drop dead in a few weeks. i lernt my lesson the first time thats why i also quite the job, but im an excellent painter and have started to do airbrushing but only on my rc cars for now untill i get better at it then i might airbrush some hot sexy naked chick on the bonnet of the mightyboy with her you know whats all exposed lol

[Billie]

As much as I love a naked girl, it is disrespectful and wrong to paint one on a car, kids, elderly and others who may not like it would be able to see it. Sucks to here what happened with the spray painting.

[cozza]

yer it does suck big time but hey my bad for not takeing the time to read things properly it's a little hard when you have trouble reading. as for the naked chick on the car it was an idea, im actually thinking on getting the grim reaper brushed from the rear to the from so it looks like he is comming to get someone as it goes along the car.

[cozza]

ok i sprayed the bonnet so far as it was the worst part of the car needing bog and stuff, used it as a test panel as it's in bad shape anyways. well i bogged it and got it all straight and clean sanded and preped it, etched it 4 times and sanded it wiped it down and sprayed it turned out like a pro paint job then disaster, the frame i had the bonnet hanging off descided to give way and it landed painted side down on the friggin steel grate in the booth i tried so hard to catch it as it fell and dislocated my wrist in the process, now ive gotta get it blasted and redo it all over again, i was so frikkin pised about it, it could have at least done this dureing the first coat not when i was applying the clear. 12 hrs of work and 2 hrs of painting down the bloody drain. hope to god when i paint the rest of the car the wheels dont fall off and the car doesnt go belly up on me. i had even added the flake and it turned out pretty good but i didnt use enough so when i do the whole car im going to add a heap more to it, was the first time ive used flakes so i didnt wanna clog the nozel on the gun.

[cozza]

ok you can now view my pics for the mb befor and after painting
via my facebook page, http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=536803722
if that doesnt work try
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 722&type=3
have the b4 and after paint but forgot all about getting pics dureing the process. i had the hard cover romoved after it was painted for the pics because the paint was still too soft at the time. hope you all enjoy them.