arklan f8c engine swap
fpr's should always be on the Return line, after the fuel rail.
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=180305
fpr came today yay
iv lost the usb cord for my camera so iv ripped off a pic from google
http://www.tunersgroup.com/images/large/large667.jpg
it looks like the smaller one except its blue, the instructions r in japanese so iv been googling how it goes together and want to get some confirmation.
the silver part at the top of the pic and has a dog leg goes to the vacuum line.
the part at the bototm of the pic goes to the tank/where fuel goes out.
the one on the side is where the fuel comes in/from pump.
and theres a alan key screw for the guage also on the side.
is all of this correct? if so and im mounting the fpr near the tank is it better to have it as close to the pump as possible or can i put it where the return line connects to the tank?
and if that silver dog leg is for the vacuum then ill need to run a small vacuum line down to the back of the car, will there be any lag from the fpr due to the distance?
edit; found the cord
iv lost the usb cord for my camera so iv ripped off a pic from google
http://www.tunersgroup.com/images/large/large667.jpg
it looks like the smaller one except its blue, the instructions r in japanese so iv been googling how it goes together and want to get some confirmation.
the silver part at the top of the pic and has a dog leg goes to the vacuum line.
the part at the bototm of the pic goes to the tank/where fuel goes out.
the one on the side is where the fuel comes in/from pump.
and theres a alan key screw for the guage also on the side.
is all of this correct? if so and im mounting the fpr near the tank is it better to have it as close to the pump as possible or can i put it where the return line connects to the tank?
and if that silver dog leg is for the vacuum then ill need to run a small vacuum line down to the back of the car, will there be any lag from the fpr due to the distance?
edit; found the cord
yeah i went and seen my dads friend who is a mechanic for race cars and he said the same thing, if i run a vacuum line down to the fuel tank there will be terrible lag
on another note here is step 2 of the hard cover , next step is to sand it and coat in fiberglass, then cover it in that white grass. the white grass has a rubber backing so it will make a nice seal.
on another note here is step 2 of the hard cover , next step is to sand it and coat in fiberglass, then cover it in that white grass. the white grass has a rubber backing so it will make a nice seal.
fitted the fpr today, very happy with todays progress.
i used the t piece out of the matiz and kept one of the fuel lines from it because it has the plug for the fuel filter which will make changing it easier.
i had exactly enough efi hose left to connect it up back to the radiator thing again and there is virtually no room, i dont know if its gonna fit or not but with a good mix of magyver it should be ok
i used the t piece out of the matiz and kept one of the fuel lines from it because it has the plug for the fuel filter which will make changing it easier.
i had exactly enough efi hose left to connect it up back to the radiator thing again and there is virtually no room, i dont know if its gonna fit or not but with a good mix of magyver it should be ok
you should relocate your battery to the tray, then theres plenty of room for a good airbox setup
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=180305
so apparently the alternator has shit itself, the sparky reckons its most likely the regulator.
he wasnt getting any charge to the battery when he tested the leads and says the leads r connected properly.
i have to pull the drivers side wheel and cv out to get the alternator out so before i do that is there anything else that can cause no charge to the battery?
he wasnt getting any charge to the battery when he tested the leads and says the leads r connected properly.
i have to pull the drivers side wheel and cv out to get the alternator out so before i do that is there anything else that can cause no charge to the battery?
At Albury Gathering #1, Brokenshire rolled into the park with a charge light glowing on the dashboard.
It had begun the Wednesday evening prior - and with judicial recharging by 240v, he made it down from Sydney.
We set upon his engine bay and never really did verify just exactly what was causing the failure to charge - his altenator was putting out voltage, it just wasn't getting to the battery. We ended up jury-rigging a substitute feed directly from the alt to the batt. and all was good - apart from the incessant light on the dash...
It had begun the Wednesday evening prior - and with judicial recharging by 240v, he made it down from Sydney.
We set upon his engine bay and never really did verify just exactly what was causing the failure to charge - his altenator was putting out voltage, it just wasn't getting to the battery. We ended up jury-rigging a substitute feed directly from the alt to the batt. and all was good - apart from the incessant light on the dash...
Tez
So the adventure continues...
So the adventure continues...
- RetroHatch
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 8:06 pm
- Location: Cessnock, NSW
Thats one way to solve it, NICE, love it!!
Tailgating my Hatch doesnt increase the horsepower of the F5A
im thinking to put the speedo from the matiz in to the boy, my measurements show that the speedos r the same size but i dont want to start pulling the dash out until i get some info first.
do i have to pull the whole dash out to get to the cluster or can i just pull out the cluster and leave the dash in there? can the speedo come out by itself in the boy? how much of a head fark is this unassuming job going to be do u think?
do i have to pull the whole dash out to get to the cluster or can i just pull out the cluster and leave the dash in there? can the speedo come out by itself in the boy? how much of a head fark is this unassuming job going to be do u think?
8 screws and the instrument cluster will come out, but you're best off reaching behind the dash and unplugging the wiring and speedo cable first. Once you've removed the cluster it can be disassembled easily with care.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.