Team MightyBoy

Been driving my boy for about a fortnight (just got it over from WA) and the past couple of days (morning and during around lunch time) it hasnt wanted to turn over or will for a short period of 5 seconds and cough then die. the battery has been in for 2 weeks, brand new one wandering if its a blocked carby jet or if its just had it and i need a new carby or alternator or whatever hates me

Could be any number of things. My process of elimination would start with fuel delivery and end with ignition components.

mornin, i had the same problem after I drove my boy from bundaberg to gympie and i had to pull out the fuel pump to flush it out. I had the same drama after i drove it to brisbane put i found a small black rubeber button on the bottom right hand side of the fuel pump and pressed that a couple time and the car started first time ever since. hope it helps in your case.

cheers guys, ill look for it just to hopefully confirm the thoughts, first start this morning choke to the max, turn key, eh eh eh eh eh eh floor the go pedal it fires, have to keep choke out for about a minute otherwise it just stalls, hope this confirms the thought so far

According to the manual, the correct way to start the MB from cold, is to pump the accelerator pedal twice, pull the choke out to "the second notch" (about 25mm) and turn the key. When the engine fires, push the choke back in about half and run it there until warm enough to idle smoothly...

Most younger folks these days have only ever experienced fuel-injected cars where, you don't touch the accelerator to start it;the computer takes care of the choke and fuel delivery and gets the engine running...

Most younger folk don't realize there's a different method for, and have never been shown how to start a carburettored engine where you have to actually think for yourself and know how to get the engine started...

<fireproof undies = on>

Tez wrote:
Most younger folks these days .....

Geez Tez,

Next time I am going through my next mid-life crisis remind me not to ask you for support

cheers Tez, next start ill give that a go can't learn without asking the right people

Well that made it start easier didn't keep running without pulling the choke back out (full choke and sit on the go pedal a little bit), almost like it revs to low and just drops out, but started fine when I got to work after it had warmed up

Sweet - glad I could help

If you still need a lot of choke to keep it idling once the temp guage starts to move off cold, then maybe you need to look into the carby - are the jets blocked or grubby? - but what I'd look at first, is the ignition system. Are you really getting a good spark at each cylinder for every compression stroke?
A bodgy ignition system will cause untold havoc. Is the rotor, the rotor cap, points and condenser all new? (assuming a standard - points ignition system) - Then how are the HT leads? - in good knick and tight on each post? - How is the coil?
Battery well charged and got clean, tight terminals?
A known- good ignition system will make a world of difference to the reliability (& starting of the engine)
There's a full diagnostic process written up and referenced here :
http://www.teammightyboy.com/forum/view ... =29&t=6023
Bit of reading there, but it will step you through what to look at to get your 'boy purring sweetly...

Cheers

Cheers again Tez i'll give it all a good lookin over when my old mans home to help he knows more than me

All good advice . When I bought my Hatch (in about 5 boxes), I had trouble with the fuel system, too. Not to say this is your problem, but, I blew out the fuel lines with compressed air, drained tank etc. Fitted new cap/rotor/points and HT leads. Are the points set to correct gap? Any build-up on their faces? (condenser rooted!). Cap in good nick? Let us know how you get on......

A (not so younger) member.

Thinking it might be a fuel issue, gonna get into it after work this arvo

ok so my old man thinks ignition, getting new plugs and leads tomorrow, had to order the leads in lol. any technical info I need on the distributor ? like gaps or anything gonna give it a cleanup while im at it

When you set the points gap, it's 0.45mm
Standard spark-plug gap is 0.75mm
Dwell is 60 +/- 2 (If you have a meter that'll do a 60-degree dwell....!
Idle revs = 950 +/- 50
Timing @ Idle = 10 DBTDC
Advance curve is:
Idle (950) = 10 DBTDC
Intermediate (2000) = 7 DBTDC
Maximum (3000 +) = 14-18 DBTDC

Parts: Dissy Cap = Bosch GD681, Rotor = Bosch GD527, Coil = Bosch B30CR1, Points = Bosch GD207, Condensor = Bosch GD209, Plugs = NGK BP5ES

(NOT saying you have to use all bosch parts or NGK, but you can cross-reference from those parts...)

Cheers

Make sure the gap on the points is around 0.018 - 0.022", clean the 3 electrodes inside the cap, if they are no longer nice and flat, grab another cap when you can afford it, as they get corroded, this increases the distance between the rotor arm and cap. Make sure end of rotor is nice and clean. Don't file it, (same as above), little rub on some wet and dry or scourer pad.
Check gaps on all plugs. Check condition of points, and when installing, make sure the two faces are parallel to each other. That should get you going....